How to spot a quality necktie (part 2 of 2)

Like many other products, the ultimate ties are handcrafted. There was a time when assessing the value of a tie was as easy as determining whether it had been made by hand, which was obvious. These days, improving technology allows manufacturers to emulate the handcrafter's stitching almost flawlessly. So how does one recognize the quality that warrants the "handmade" price tag?

In addition to finding a reliable salesperson or a store with a good reputation, check out these clues found in the details of a handcrafted tie:

Bar tac. Turn the tie over. Look for a horizontal stitch at the back of the broader end of the tie. This stitch, called a "bar tac," prevents the tie from pulling open. The bar tac should be neat — no material bunched or pulled around it. No self-respecting tie maker would ever skimp on this little detail.

Slipstitch. All quality ties are sewn inside out and then reversed. A "slipstitch" should be at the top of the narrow end. The slipstitch ensures that your tie can "move" on its own thread and won't rip when it's being wrapped tightly around your neck. The slipstitch also helps the tie return to its original shape when removed from your neck. Pull the slipstitch, and the tie should gather. If the tie in your hand does this, then you have found a quality, handmade tie.

Wool lining. A fine tie will always have "body" and fullness, which helps it hold its shape. As such, it should be lined on the inside, ideally with 100 percent wool in a handcrafted tie. At the very least, your tie should be lined with a heavy fabric that has a high content of wool. The best linings are marked with a series of gold bars that are visible if you open up the back of the tie. The more bars, the heavier the lining.

Three pieces of fabric. Finally, test the tie by running your fingers down the fabric to count the separate pieces of material. There should be three pieces of fabric stitched together rather than the two commonly used in commercial manufacturing.

How to spot a quality necktie (part 1 of 2)

In the quest to maintain a polished wardrobe many men forget to factor in their neckwear. As any ivy league grad will tell you a quality necktie can communicate your pedigree from across the room. And while we all are not privilaged enough to have blue blood or an oxford scroll, there are a few tricks that can make sure your tie game is above the masses.

The material. The best ties are 100 percent silk, so feel the fabric to make sure you're getting what you're paying for. Learn to recognize pure silk by touch or find a salesperson you can rely on to sell you only the best.

The cut. A tie should be cut exactly to a 45 degree angle. You can test this by holding the tie out in front of you, gripping the narrow end. If it is made right, it should not twist.

The best ties are also cut "on the bias," which means they have been cut across the fabric (a more expensive process of cutting because it "wastes" more fabric). On-the-bias cutting ensures that the finished product falls straight after the knot has been tied, without curling. To test this, after you have knotted the tie, hold it across your hand. It should fall straight over the back of your hand. If it starts to twist to an angle, then it probably was not cut on the bias.

The shape. Quality ties are resilient and should easily retain their shape. To test this, gently tug at both ends of the tie to see if it returns to its original shape.

The hang. Checking how the tie hangs is another important test. You can do this by holding it up at the midpoint (the point where you could fold the tie in
half). If it doesn't hang straight, then the outer fabric may be bound too tightly for the lining. In other words, don’t buy this tie.

The fit. Finally, you can’t beat trying on a tie in order to judge its quality and its look and feel. For the most helpful assessment, try it on with the same type of shirt you plan to wear it with (consider wearing the shirt when you shop) in order to properly assess the length and width of the tie. Your preference will depend on your height and stature, so only a true "test run" will accurately tell you if this is the tie for you.

Sunglasses - Crooks & Castles vs. Mosley Tribes Castellano

These collab shades are available in matte black and ivory white, with both models sporting C&C's PacMan-styled chained “C” logo on the temple (Mosley's missing logo must look like a pulsating blue ghost). Visit this site to get more info or purchase pair.

Jack Threads - It was secret society now all we ask is trust

JackThreads.com is an online street fashion community offering you one incredible hook-up at a time on brand name streetwear, sneakers, and accessories. at one point you needed to know someone within the community to get an invitation. Now all you need to do is head over to the site and sign up.

Sobieski premium vodka

Sip on this line of reasoning: Vodka is Poland's official national drink (seriously). Sobieski is Poland's #1 premium vodka. Therefore, if you want to get serious about vodka, you need to try Sobieski. To get more logical than that, you'd have to sprout giant, pointy ears. More info on Polish vodka and butt-whipping Polish kings at VodkaSobieski.com

T.I. feat Jay-Z and Kanye West - Swagger like us

Head over to the playlist for the leaked track "Swagger like us" from the forthcoming "Paper trail" album.

Timeless cool - Jimi Hendrix performs Machine Gun

To say Jimi Hendrix was good at playing the guitar would almost be like saying Warren Buffet is an O.K. investor or Michael Phelps did well in couple races. Hendrix was is and shall continue to be the gold standard of guitar player. The way he made his instrument talk was amazing. If you need an example play the following videos both of which capture a live performance of Machine Gun. In the second video you would almost swear the guitar was haunted.

The Flowbots - No Handle Bars

New video from the Salt Lake based group the Flowbots. Grab the full track in the Purveyor of Cool Playlist.

A Purveyor of Cool: Andrew Ostry

WHO ARE YOU?
Drew Ostry

WHERE ARE YOU FROM?
Born and raised in Milwaukee, Wisconsin – but I’ve lived in Austin, Los Angeles and Chicago during the course of the last few years.

WHERE ARE ARE BASED OUT OF CURRENTLY?
I somehow managed to get to Dallas. I miss Austin and want to get back there someday.

WHAT DO YOU DO?
Professionally - I’m in advertising – I’m an Account Planner. Awful title for a pretty cool job: I consider it to be a bit of journalism/anthropology/art. Every Planner does it a bit different, though.

Personally – I try and paint & put together mixed media pieces when I can. I also design and screen my own t-shirts. I pick up the occasional graphic design job, too. I also have at least four ideas for books that are in various states of chaos that I want to try and publish.

WHAT ARE THE THREE THINGS PEOPLE NEED TO KNOW ABOUT YOU?
1) Being a father is the best thing I’m ever going to do.
2) I use my A.D.D. as a tool. If controlled correctly, it can wield some pretty cool ideas.
3) I never mix politics/religion/money with friendship.

DEFINE COOL FOR US.
Cool is a completely pliable thing, depending on who’s defining it. Often, it changes day by day. Cool is had and lost, only to be had again. No one owns cool, EVER. You simply get to enjoy the ride while you can.

SO WHAT MAKES YOU A PURVEYOR OF COOL?
I think ideas are best when shared. Whether they’re mine or something someone else came up with, it’s great to get it out into the world.

ANY LAST WORDS?
Embrace the change and never blame.

Contact info
drewcastic@gmail.com
www.drewcastic.com

My card is better than your card.

If you've seen the movie American Psycho you remember the scene where Patrick Bateman obsesses over his counterparts business cards.

For the budding yuppie in the 80's the flat single sided card was the norm. Now with customization and personal expression a must for a more creative working class personalized business card with artistic touches will begin to become more common. One place to find them is at www.streetcards.com.  This site features cartoons from Hugh MacLeod.  Some of his work is pictured below. 

New Music - "Delivery man" by The Cool Kids

Check out a brand new track In the play list by The Cool Kids. Chuck and Mikey are back with their distinctive flow on the new track "Delivery man"

Nike Air Jordan 2.5

The Jordan 2 and 3 are individually some of my favorite shoes. But the Jordan 2.5 attempts to blend the best of both. Fat Boy shoes has dug up this yet to be release mock up. Check out the design and let me know what you think.

Digital Kama Sutra - Sex Ed 2.0

At some point we have all wondered "How can I add a little something new to my relationship?". I ran across this site...no really, it just popped up...I mean... forget it. Click on the image and get a very detailed look at some new or rather new to you, positions. Each position featured is animated, features a brief description and a small animation. 

Nice racks

If you know anything about David Byrne, you know that he loves riding his bike around New York. Recently, Byrne took his bike enthusiasm to a whole new level, and teamed up with the Department of Transportation and PaceWildenstein to create nine temporary, super-snazzy bike racks that are peppered throughout the city. They will be removed 11 months from now, at which point they'll be sold as works of art.

Ice Ice Baby - Iceorb

While it may not be a big deal how your get your ice, if you could make the process a little more interesting you would, right? Peep the Iceorb, it's the first vertical Ice tray and it's pretty slick. The Iceorb retails for $16 and can be found at www.fusionbrands.com

Open Clip: Cut and paste feature for iPhone

Cut and Paste for iPhone from Cali Lewis on Vimeo.

iPhone users have been looking for this feature since the initial roll out. Zac White and Openclip.org provide a solution. Now if we can just get some video capture going on.

New music - I kissed a Girl remix & I'm only human redux

Take a look in The Purveyor Of Cool playlist for new music by Katie Perry feat MIMS and Zo! & Tigallo.

The One Second Film

Click here for more info or to donate.

Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer '09 Mens Fashion show

D&G Spring/Summer 2009 Mens from Long Tran on Vimeo.

Dolce & Gabbana have be delivering excellent menswear recently and this show looks to be a hint at the continuation of this trend. Most notably are the Bow ties, skinny slacks and athletic dress shoes featured.

Nike Olympic Art Exhibit: The commitment

Botega Venetta Sneakers

Known for premium leather goods the fashion house of Botega Venetta has worked up some upscale casual footwear.

New Palm Treo Pro

The folks over at palm are about as anxious as a Hip-Hop artist trying to chart in the top ten. In an effort to whoop up some interest in the new product Palm has leaked the photo above and the video below. As a former Treo owner, Android observer and current iPhone user I am anxious to see who will win the pockets of technophiles, suits and would be socialites.

New York to Montreal Rental Car Rally

2008 NYC To Montreal Rental Car Road Rally from Richard Blakeley on Vimeo.

Put 60 teams of cars and drivers together with nothing better to do and someone is bound to start racing. This crew decided to beat it up out Long Island to Montreal. Check the video for more.

TFL Fashion & Color Inspirations Spring/Summer 2009

TFL has released their color projections for next season. lets see if the major fashion houses follow suit with their women's wear.




Chic shades are inspired by a harmonic and natural world, invaded by the warm and fascinating colors of plants. Basic colors conveying quiet and pureness, but taking us back to the '60s when combined with green and violet, with more cutting vivid spirit.


Casual colors reflect the cold light of pixels and deformed effects. Unusual combinations remind us of new forms of mimetism. Iron grey cuts these colors and makes them matchable, while deep yellow inflames them of a dazzling light with psychedelic effects.


The Classic world is deeply inspired by colors of the Mediterranean beaches, where the strong appeal of the sea combines with the period of figurative arts. Flaming and almost primary colours convey strength and energy, but drive us towards a measured chromatic indiscipline through creative and post-futuristic combinations, daring with creative couplings.


The TFL 'Color Trends & Fashion Inspirations' catalog for leather is published twice a year. The exclusive editions are available in February and September. Please contact your local TFL partner for details, or have a look at www.tfl.com to see the forecasted fashion and color trends.

Nike Olympic Beijing Collection

Nike has launched a Beijing Collection, which includes a collectible set of sneakers that honors this year’s Olympics.

Each of these sneakers were inspired by something in Beijing, like the Beijing National Stadium. For example, the Air Max 87s contain octagon designs resembling the eight sides of the stadium. Another pair features lined patterns reminiscent of the stadium’s bird nest design.

The collection includes the Air Max 87, Air Max BW, Air Max 90 and Air Max 95, Air Max Ltd 2, R4 and Shox NZ.

These “Bejing” lucky sneakers are featured at Foot Locker under their Nike Feed

Lewis Leathers vs. COMME des GARCONS Charles

In recent fashion history a number of design houses have taken a stab at refining the Chuck. Effectively creating the "Charles" catagory. One such offering that does a great job of marrying the classic with the unique design house signature is the Lewis leathers partnership.

"Britain’s classic motorcycle jacket purveyors Lewis Leathers have joined forces with one of Japan’s COMME des GARCONS in this latest footwear collaboration. They worked on a hi top sneaker with an All Star silhouette. The entire upper comes covered in Lewis Leathers premium leather and features nice detailed in the form of zippers and straps." - highsnobiety

Gravis Chuck Expedition

Gravis pulls from a number of different shoe & boot styles in their Chuck Expedition. Timberland style laces, Adidas fat laces, Vans soles and hunting boot collars. Even though its a little all over everywhere the Chuck Expedition will turn heads.

Friendly Fires - Jump in the pool video

Kris Van Assche silver collection

KRIS VAN ASSCHE Silver Collections 2008 from tommy warzecha on Vimeo.

Kris Van Assche designed the pieces featured in the video above. Take a minute to check them out and let me what you think.

1985 Michael Jordan Draft T-shirt

 I mean...what more needs to be said. 

Crooks & Castles Woven Denim

Crooks & Castles are getting it done with this offering. 

Peep the detail on the back pockets and the treatment of the denim.

Global green: Earning abroad

As the US dollar continues to take a beating. Americans have begun to look beyond their own shores. One example, in a recent article Kobe Bryant and Dwayne Wade joked about the money available over seas "what do you think 50 mil for the best back court ever. sign me up". Another can be found in the Greek team Olympikos flirting with offering LeBron $40-50 million in 2010. No you could say that these are pro athletes/entertainers. True, but one could argue that the global market was secondary to the USA. Now the Euro and its strength have changed that. This mentality is trickling down to us common  folks as well. More individuals are exporting their goods, services and expertise abroad. Another trend is the adoption of the Euro as a means of payment. 

Has the romance and love of the dollar fallen to the wayside, I doubt it. But more and more, especially young Americans cheating with the Euro. Green gone global ain't a bad thing at all. 

Does that suit fit you? No, really.

Even in an age where limited edition recycled denim, un-tucked button down shirts and blazers are the default uniform for the self described fashion conscious man, a well fitting suit still speaks volumes. Note the well fitting portion of that comment. 

Off the rack, suiting from even the best fashion house could stand to have a tailor tighten up your fit. Much like a car or your house you have to customize it so it is uniquely your own. 

If you look at the model to the left (courtesy of Esquire) 7 major points are called out. Take some time to check your suiting against them and see if you need to make a trip to a trusted tailor.

1. Shoulder pads end with your shoulders.

2. Your flat hand should slip easily into your suit under the lapels when the top (or middle) button is fastened. If you put a fist in, the suit should pull at the button.

3. The top button of a two-button suit -- or the middle button of a three-button suit -- should not fall below your navel.

4. With your arms at your sides, your knuckles should be even with the bottom of your jacket.

5. Jacket sleeves should fall where the base of your thumb meets your wrist.

6. Between a quarter and a half inch of shirt cuff should be visible.

7. One inch of break.

Making sure that these 7 point are taken care off will elevate a nice suit to a head turner. 

Portable fireplace by Conmoto

As Summer begins to trail off and fall creeps closer, get prepared to switch your game up and start looking for that cuddle buddy. One sure way to increase your odds of not freezing your butt off solo is with the Conmoto traveling fireplace. Not only can you set the mood just about anywhere due to the portability but you can use it continuously for 2.5 to 3.5 hours thanks to the Bio-Ethanol fuel tank. That should get you through the longest chic flick.

for a more permanent option Conmoto offers up the Floor flame. Can you say player? if you can't buy this joint and you won't have to.

The Return of the Green Fairy. Absinthe is back

Absinthe is a 140-proof green liqueur made from herbs like fennel, anise, and the exceptionally bitter leaves of Artemisia absinthium. That last ingredient, also known as wormwood, gives the drink its name - and its sinister reputation. For a century, absinthe has been demonized and outlawed, based on the belief that it leads to absinthism - far worse than mere alcoholism. Drinking it supposedly causes epilepsy and "criminal dementia."

Absinthe was first distilled in 1792 in Switzerland, where it was marketed as a medicinal elixir, a cure for stomach ailments. Soon absinthe was the social lubricant of choice for a broad swath of Europeans - artists and otherwise. In 1874, the French sipped 700,000 liters of the stuff; by the turn of the century, consumption had shot up to 36 million liters.

By the early 20th century, absinthe was becoming popular in America. It found a natural reception in New Orleans. But the drink was drawing fire for its Thujone content. Thujone is a compound in wormwood that is toxic if it's ingested, capable of causing violent seizures and kidney failure. The scent of Thujone is akin to mental laced with Napalm. "It is truly madness in a bottle, and no habitual drinker can claim that he will not become a criminal," declared one politician in years past. The anti-absinthe fervor climaxed in 1905, when Swiss farmer Jean Lanfray shot his pregnant wife and two daughters after downing two glasses. (Overlooked was what else Lanfray consumed that day: creme de menthe, cognac, seven glasses of wine, coffee with brandy, and another liter of wine.) By the end of World War I, the "green menace" was made illegal everywhere in western Europe except Spain. No reputable distillery still made it. 

But the tide recently has turned and Thujone free Absinthe is now available in and of a remarkably high quality.  The long standing reputation has served as a tremendous viral marketing tool and for those who enjoy things like Fugu (blow fish) sushi, Absinthe will be quickly become the "I dare you" drink leading to many a impromptu history lesson at the end of the bar.

A Purveyor of Cool: RD (Chicagogetter)

WHO ARE WE WITH?
RD, Chief Chica www.ChicaGoGetter.com

WHERE ARE YOU FROM?
KY

WHERE ARE YOU BASED NOW?
The Go a.k.a Chicago

WHAT YOU DO?
Write.chill.shuck.jive.market.advertise

WHAT ARE THREE THINGS PEOPLE NEED TO KNOW ABOUT YOU?
I'm pretty down to earth and have southern belle tendencies, I've recently discovered within the last couple of years that I'm extrovert with introvert tendencies when I need to recharge, I dig meeting grounded, centered, intelligent or spiritual people as I am trying to grow in those areas on a continuous basis myself

DEFINE COOL FOR US?
Cool is a quiet confidence that exists within people who "just do them" and aren't concerned about what other people think

SO WHAT MAKES YOU A PURVEYOR OF COOL?
Refer to the question above. I'm just me.

ANY LAST WORDS?
Run your own race.

SO HOW CAN FOLKS CATCH UP WITH YOU?
Hit me up at chicagogetter@gmail.com

Nike Mobama dunk lo

Created by artist Virtual Mo in the Nike Innovation Kitchen, the Mobama Dunk Low 2008 features a unique appearance that includes various laser detailing in hopes to boost the senator’s chances in the upcoming elections. Virtual Mo designs the sneakers to follow the traditional USA colors, but was manufactured inside the Nike Innovation Kitchen where he added laser details. Unfortunately only two pairs have been created, but a chance of a limited edition run can be imminent.

As dictated to my iPhone

Not everyone loves the iPhone's screen-only keyboard. It's a bit taxing if you need to compose an e-mail longer than, say, two sentences. But there's an easy workaround thanks to Jott, a free voice-to-text transcription service that I recommended in April.

If you've set up a Jott account and imported your contacts, you can dial Jott's toll-free number, dictate an e-mail, and tell Jott to send it to one of your contacts. But what if you need to send a longish e-mail from your iPhone to someone who isn't among your Jott contacts?

Rather than typing out the e-mail on the iPhone's keypad, try this instead. First, dial Jott. Tell the service you want to Jott yourself (send yourself an e-mail). Start speaking; you've got up to 30 seconds. When you're done, stop talking. The service will ask if you want a reminder. Say no, and hang up.

Within a few minutes, you'll receive an e-mail from the Jott service on your iPhone. Your voice message will have been transcribed into text and added to the body of the Jott e-mail message. In most cases, the transcription will be surprisingly accurate--unless you called from a windy or noisy environment. You can then forward the Jott e-mail to whomever you want.

Kill, Robot Kill! Google Android launch date announced

Touted as an iPhone killer, Google Android mobile OS could hit the US via T-Mobile and handset manufacturer HTC as early as September 17th. Adding to the want factor is the fact that it will be available to "select" customers. The HTC Dream will be selling for $400 and could very well present a problem for the iphone. The large touch screen paired with the physical keyboard is a winning combination.

If you are ready to embrace your inner nerd, view the video demo below and you can learn more about Android.

Everyone can cop Beats by Dr.Dre

Producer extraordinaire Dr. Dre is upset. He is tired of building classic tracks and you not hearing all the details. "People aren't hearing all the music. Artists and producers work hard in the studio perfecting their sound. But people can't really hear it with normal headphones. Most headphones can't handle the bass, the detail, the dynamics. Bottom line, the music doesn't move you.
With Beats, people are going to hear what the artists hear, and listen to the music the way they should: the way I do"

I took some time to try Beats out in my local Apple store, a retail partner along with Best Buy and I was impressed. They gave tremendous sonic response. Noise cancellation and Monster wiring add to the clarity of sound. Pair these attributes with the Quincy Jones of Hip-Hop stamp of approval and I have a feeling you'll see Beats on heads stepping of team busses and walking down football stadium halls late this summer. The back to school crowd may also pick up a pair but at a $350 a pair these will be a status items.

Jay-Z "Blueprint 3 is a go"

Head over to The Purveyor of Cool playlist (look right) for two new tracks that may make Blueprint 3.

Jordan is changing the game again

J's are a staple of the hard court athlete and the urban tastemaker. Now that swagger will make it's debut on the gridiron. The team at Jordan brand has taken the classic upper and mated it with a cleated sole. Look for prepsters (High school ) to lead as the earliest adopters followed by NFL luminaries. College teams with TV deals may have pre-existing contracts that may keep athletes from rockin' this version of the III (Third Jordan shoe released)

Drive in design

Great, aesthetically pleasing design needn't be limited to traditional architectural forms such as houses and public buildings. Utilitarian spaces, such as car parks, present architects and designers with a unique opportunity to bring beauty and harmony to the everyday functional spaces that are normally ignored by great design minds. We're excited to report that the tide is changing, evidenced by these good-looking car parks.


Modern design is all about "experience" and these car parks pictured acknowledge that one's experience of a private or public place begins the minute they pull up in their car. Innovative developers and designers are recognising just how crucial this is - it's almost too late by the time the consumer arrives at the front door. The "experience" of good design starts well before that.

These samples demonstrate how luminous exteriors, bold graphics and neon bright lighting all work here to create a space that is breathing, achieving the previously unachievable - giving tonnes of drab, purely functional concrete a sense of life. - Lisa Evans

Ralph Lauren + The Olympics = Classic American Style gone global

Ralph Lauren has always been the first name in classic American style. The clothier did not disappoint this week during the opening of the Olympic games The US team was beyond dapper.